Automobile’s sound insulation with your own hands

Automobile’s sound insulation with your own hands

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Automobile’s sound insulation with your own hands

Regardless of your automobile’s producer or the price of particular model, the noise will be still heard. Of course, there is sometimes the optional vibro- and sound insulation, but it doesn’t provide the significant result. So there is the necessity to change something.

Advice
Automobile’s sound insulation with your own hands consists of several stages:
  1. Preparation;
  2. Door isolation;
  3. Work with the passenger compartment (floor, roof);
  4. Hood.

To begin with, arm yourself with set of tools, plastic paddles to remove the upholstery, rough roller, hot air gun and cushion of time.
First step is to stop the engine and throw the terminal back off the battery. Remove everything that will hinder. Always start with the seats. Remove everything that hinders you to reach the metal.

Advice: there’s no point to use to thick material for the doors. The noise will still get through the window. The thickness won’t provide the significant effect, but there will be the extra weight.

Clean the surface before starting to work. You can start with the doors. As a rule, internal material has «windows» that we have access to the external one through. Glue 2 mm of vibro-isolator there and flatten with the roller.

Sound isolator comes as the second layer. You don’t need to take too thick one, 4mm will do. Sound insulation of the car with your own hands has many nuances. For example, it is extremely important to choose the water repellant material, because the humidity inside the doors is a routine practice. Be careful, there are drain holes below the door, you shouldn’t glue them up.

Then pay attention to the holes between the internal and external metals. Glue them up with vibro-isolator. Fix the acoustic absorber from above. It is desirable to use the relief material of 10 mm thickness. It is important not to fix it on all the door, but only around the perimeter for its easy removal in case of any repair.

Then the floor. Glue up and flatten 2mm layer of vibro-isolator. Of course, the bottom has many inequalities, so don’t hesitate to cut the material for more firm adherence to the surface. You should lay the special emphasis on the back wheel arches. Glue up more heavy and rough double layer of vibro-isolator of 4 mm thickness.

The second layer on the bottom is a sound isolator of 4 mm thickness. Prefer the water repellent material, this is important.

The third one is the special heavy sound isolator of 2 mm thickness. Of course, you can fix it on the first layer, but material needs to have an interplay layer, which may be the intermediate acoustic absorber.

Advice: it is not recommended to use too thick (8 mm) acoustic absorber on the bottom. In this case, the material cannot be with overlap and you will need to adapt it edge to edge.

When you are done with the doors and bottom, sound insulation of the car with your own hands will be faster. You only need two layers for the roof. The first one is as always, vibro-isolator. Carefully roll it without the «bubbles». Closely glue the relief acoustic absorber of 10 mm.

How to make the sound insulation of the car more effective? Not to be lazy and deal with the hood. 2 layers will be enough for the result. The first one is the sound-isolator and then we fix 10 mm of acoustic absorber. Everything is the same as in case of the roof.

Glue the trunk of two layers up under the same rubric. Bet there is one nuance. Prefer the light materials. If there are five doors in the car, then optional piles may not cope with the weight.

That’s it. But if your budget is limited, then you should deal with the bottom at first, then with the hood, doors and the last one – the roof.

Material for sound insulation of the car

If you need the noise abatement of passenger compartment and hood of high quality, then you should buy the product of the verified producer. Many specialists prefer the StP materials.

First and foremost you need the vibro-isolator that will be the first layer everywhere. Prefer the StP Aero of 2 mm thickness.

You will also need the acoustic absorber StP Barrier of 4 mm. This material is used as a second layer and has the amazing water repellent characteristics.

When you buy the materials for sound insulation of cars, then you will need the acoustic absorber StP BiPlast of 10 mm. It is used as the last layer for the roof and hood. StP Noise Block perfectly fits for the bottom.

Don’t forget to purchase a little bit more solid vibro-isolator StP Bimast Bomb Premium of 4 mm. You will need the small amount of such material.

The list is over now. The most important is not to save on the sound insulation or you won’t see the effect. Do it by parts if the budget is limited.

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